“TOYOTA MOTORHOMES 101” (aka Toyota RVs / aka Toyota Campers) To learn all about Toyota Motorhomes, click on READ MORE.
Toyota Motorhomes are a particular type of Class C Recreational Vehicle, often referred to as “Micro-mini Motorhomes.” They were built on a Toyota pick-up truck chassis from 1972 to 1994, and are known for their reliability, economy, and ability to park in smaller spaces. While the exact number of Toyota motorhomes that were produced by multiple manufacturers can never be easily calculated, reasonable estimates of the total number could be as high as 60,000. Currently Toyota motorhomes appear to be retaining their value, more so than some other brands of motorhomes of the same vintage. It is not uncommon to see well-cared-for vehicles being advertised and selling in the $25,000 - $35,000 USD range for the rarest, intentionally restored ones. Owners report that they appreciate the better-than-average gas mileage that the Toyota engines deliver compared to other motorhomes of the same age and class.
HISTORICAL OVERVIEW
There are several distinctive eras of manufacturing of Toyota motorhomes, defined by the type of chassis that was used as the platform:
1972-1977
The earliest models of Toyota motorhomes were Toyota Chinooks built specifically for Toyota dealerships to sell. They were built on the Toyota pick-up chassis with 18r and 20r engines. In place of the truck bed there was a small integrated motorhome, including access between the cab and the coach.
There are pop-top models of Chinooks with a canvas-sided raised roof to allow a person to stand, and subsequently Chinook produced all-fiberglass models which were full height, known as Newport and Omega models. There were only two choices of floorplans in Chinooks, with either a dinette behind the cab that made a bed, or a with sofabed on the passenger side. Chinooks have fresh water tanks, but no holding tanks. Porta-potties were an option.
1978-1981
Beginning in 1978 Toyota Motor Corporation started selling their pickup chassis with the 20r engine chassis to multiple motorhome manufacturing companies, to use as a platform for various models with a wider variety of floorplans. In this era, the majority of Toyota motorhomes came into their own as fully "self-contained," meaning they had holding tanks and water heaters added.
1982-1985
In 1982 Toyota began selling their newer pickup chassis with the 22r engine (carbureted) for the manufacture of motorhomes. A few were produced with a diesel motor as well. These chassis were delivered with single wheels on the rear. Motorhome manufacturers in most cases bolted or welded on additional wheels to carry the extra weight of the coach portion of the vehicle. This modification stressed the axle in ways it was not designed for, causing the axles to break, sometimes suddenly while traveling. (See the section below regarding the “Axle Recall.”) Some manufacturers addressed the extra weight issue by using tandem (two) rear axles.
1986-1988
To permanently correct this issue, in 1986 Toyota started selling only pick-up chassis for motorhome manufacture that already had dual rear wheels (four total) on a full one-ton floating axle. This so-called "safe" axle is easily identified by the fact that it has six lug nuts, not five. (Note that it is possible to be fooled by a plastic wheel cover that imitates five lug nuts.) Beginning in 1987, the chassis supplied by Toyota had matching six-lug wheels (with up-graded brakes) on the front as well.
Also in 1986, the improved 22re engine (fuel injected) was introduced for the chassis that was provided to motorhome manufacturers. A very few were built with a 22re Turbo engine as well.
At the peak of production (in the 1980s) there were approximately three dozen manufacturers using the Toyota chassis to build motorhomes. (See the list which follows. It contains almost 50 models, but not all manufacturers were active at the same time.) These various manufacturers each created multiple floorplans: some with bunk beds, even one model with a slide-out side (Four Seasons). For reference, hundreds of online photos of Toyota motorhomes are available in this group’s “Files” Section.
1989-1994
In 1989 (1988 in Canada) Toyota began supplying motorhome manufacturers with an all-new pick-up chassis with the more powerful 3.0 V-6 engine 3VZ-E, continuing until 1993. For a good percentage of these vehicles, the model year of the motorhome is titled as one year newer than the chassis year because manufacturing of the motorhome took several months to be completed. (This means that any 1994 Toyota motorhome is actually built on a 1993 chassis.) By this time there were only about 10 Toyota motorhome manufacturers continuing to build on the V-6 chassis. (See the list which follows.)
TYPES OF CONSTRUCTION
The earliest Toyota Chinook models made specifically for Toyota all have coach shells made from molded fiberglass.
Starting in 1978 with the offering of the Toyota chassis to multiple manufacturers, many of them chose to use the more common conventional construction style for the coach portion, using wooden framing with corrugated aluminum exterior siding. Between 1986 and 1988, most manufacturers transitioned to corrugated fiberglass siding, with some retaining the corrugated aluminum for the curved portions on the front and rear. A very few manufacturers used aluminum framing too, for more longevity.
Several of the manufacturers continued the style of molded fiberglass for the coach, the most prolific being Sunrader. (See additional information below.) The rounded style of the molded fiberglass is considered by some to be quite attractive, and the potential for rain leaks is less; although fiberglass coaches can still leak just as much around their vents and windows as a conventionally built motorhome.
ENGINE COMPARISONS
Many Toyota motorhome owners report a preference for the 3.0 V-6 engine (3VZ-E) because of its increased horsepower, compared to the 4-cylinder engines, for powering a vehicle of mini-motorhome weight. However it is also suggested that the older 4-cylinder engines in Toyota motorhomes (20r, 22r, and 22re), especially those with a manual transmission, are preferable because they are simpler to work on and maintain, compared to the V-6 engines.
Both engines tend to get about the same gas mileage, with manual transmissions being more economical than automatics in both cases. Gas mileage reports vary widely between 11 mpg and 19mpg, with the primary variable being speed of travel. Most owners report that driving about 55 mph gives the best performance. However weather conditions (wind), terrain (hills), type of gas (ethanol), and overall weight are also very significant factors.
Motorhomes with 4-cylinder engines can comfortably run at highway speeds when on flat terrain, but do tend to slow down significantly on hills. Even so, 4-cylinder Toyota motorhomes have often been taken by their owners over 11,000' passes in Colorado without issues, albeit going slowly. For 4-cylinder motorhomes with automatic transmissions made before 1987, adding an auxiliary transmission oil cooler is highly recommended to help prevent transmission overheating. (Transmission oil coolers became standard equipment after 1987.) 4-cylinder (22r, 22re) owners are also cautioned to watch out for wear on the plastic timing chain guides that can show up as a brief rattle on startup, somewhere after about 75,000 miles. Immediate replacement is recommended to avoid more costly engine repairs.
Likewise, V-6 owners are cautioned to pay attention to keeping the valves adjusted regularly as per the factory recommendations, and to notice if any exhaust manifold leaks develop (which tend to be more common on the passenger side with this engine).
Occasionally some owners have chosen to replace the motorhome engine with a different model or brand (such as a Toyota 3.4 or a Lexus or a Chevy V-8) to provide more power for recreational vehicle use.
In addition to these basic descriptions of the several versions of engines used for Toyota motorhomes, one can find many available opinions from other online Toyota groups, regarding specific engine quirks, differences, merits, and recommendations.
PURCHASING A TOYOTA MOTORHOME
All Toyota motorhomes are now over 28 years old and many are almost 40. Because of this, prices depend more significantly on condition rather than on the specific model and year as with most other vehicles. The range of condition is quite extreme, from those that are amazingly well-cared-for and fully functional with multiple upgrades and enhancements such as solar power systems, to those which are truly falling apart from neglect.
Before making a selection for purchase, buyers would be wise to become well-educated about the various models and engines, as well as familiar with the operation of the various RV systems so that they can properly be evaluated for their functionality and for the level of repair that they likely will require. This group can provide excellent instruction for potential buyers regarding what to look for in advance, so that their dream motorhome doesn’t turn out to be a so-called “money pit.” Most buyers can expect that they will need to spend a lot of “hobby time” with a new-to-them Toyota motorhome to make it safely drivable and optimally comfortable for travel. However when it is refreshed to be fully operational, most owners report that they definitely appreciate the enjoyment that a Toyota Micro-mini Motorhome can provide.
SPECIFIC CONCERNS FOR TOYOTA RVS
Axle Recall -- 1991
In April 1991, the issue of the overstressed single wheel axles used prior to 1986 caused the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) to issue a recall requiring all manufacturers who added additional rear wheels to the single wheel axles to replace them with the true one-ton full-floating dual wheel axles. (There is an additional document in these Files which is a copy of a notice from NHTSA’s office of Defects Investigation that was sent to National RV Inc. in California.)
This liability for unsafe axles plus other market factors caused a great majority of the manufacturers of Toyota motorhomes to go out of business around this time.
For owners of vehicles with the recalled axle, whose manufacturer was no longer in business, Toyota Motor Sales USA offered a free replacement one-ton dual wheel axle. The cost to install it was responsibility of the owner. (This free axle offer expired in 2004.) It is estimated from viewing online sales for the past decade that about 65% of the vehicles with recalled axles have had them replaced.
Finally in 1994 Toyota Motor Corporation ceased offering their pick-up chassis to motorhome manufacturers in the United States altogether, presumably because of the continuing liability and litigation. Toyota did continue offering their chassis for the manufacture of motorhomes in other countries (Australia and Japan) with the appropriate right-hand drive.
V-6 Engine Head Gasket "Recall” - 1996
In October 1996 Toyota Motor Sales USA issued a Special Service Campaign (VO-6 Campaign) for the head gaskets on its 3.0 L 3VZ-E engine used in Toyota motorhomes and other vehicles. (Technically, it is not a “recall.”) The campaign is for replacement of the head gaskets because the material initially used in these model years has proven to be inferior, causing engine overheating. The campaign has 2 parts; one for the years 1988 to early 1990 (which expired first), and one for the years 1990 -1993 of Toyota motorhome chassis, which has now also expired. (There is an additional document in these Files which is a copy of the letter that was sent to Toyota Service Centers with detailed information.)
Not all Toyota motorhomes of these years were recalled, presumably due to variations between factories. This special service campaign was still being honored by Toyota Service Centers (Dealers) through December 2018. Toyota Service Centers were compensated for performing the required replacement work through that date, but the choice to accept the vehicle for service or not was up to the individual Service Center. Toyota Service Centers are still capable of performing this head gasket replacement, but they are no longer compensated, so the expense falls on the vehicle owner now.
V-6 MANUFACTURERS OF TOYOTA MOTORHOMES (1989 - 1994)
Only a handful of the dozens of manufacturers "survived" the axle liability and market forces, to continue manufacturing Toyota motorhomes with the V-6 chassis in the 1990s.
Following is a list of the top 9 motorhome manufacturers that continued to build on the Toyota V-6 chassis, in descending order of total number of vehicles manufactured (based on the observed number of vehicles available for sale in the last 10 or so years):
Winnebago Industries (Forest City, IA) 1986 - 1994 manufactured ''Toye'' (no-frills), ''Warrior'' (basic), and ''Itasca Spirit'' (higher-end) models, in both 21' and 19' lengths.
National RV, Inc. (Perris, CA) 1978 - 1994, manufactured ''Dolphin'' (basic) and ''SeaBreeze'' (higher end) models in 18' initially, and then 21' and 19' lengths.
Leisure Odyssey (San Bernardino, CA) 1980 - 1991 manufactured multiple conventionally constructed ''Odyssey'' models (named for their floorplans), and an ''Americana'' model with a molded fiberglass overcab. Odysseys have the tallest and widest interior of any brand of Toyota motorhome. All models are 21', except a very few which are their tilt-top model and their four-wheel drive models which are shorter.
Gardner-Pacific Corp. (Vallejo, CA) 1979 - 1991 manufactured the ''Sunrader'' & ''Sunrader Classic'' models in 18' and 21' lengths. Sunraders are well-known (and noticeably sought-after) for their molded fiberglass construction with a clamshell design that has the upper and lower portion seamed around the middle. This construction, without the usual seams between a side-panel and the roof, lessens the possibility of rain leaking into the structure. The vast majority of Sunraders were manufactured with the 22r and 22re (four cylinder engines). A very few of these (28) were also made with an 18' four-wheel drive chassis. (No Sunrader "4x4s" were made with a V-6 engine.) Since then there are perhaps a dozen or more Sunraders that have been seen on the internet that have been converted to be 4x4s. The two-wheel drive V-6 Sunraders, especially the shorter 18’ model, are almost as rare, and ads are often seen from potential buyers seeking them. Additionally, in the earliest years of the company, Gardner-Pacific also made a very few slide-in campers and fifth wheel models with the same molded fiberglass clam-shell design.
Gulfstream Coach, Inc. (Elkhart, IN) 1989 - 1993 manufactured the ''Conquest'' model, and the higher-end “Ultra'' model, which has aluminum rather than wooden framing.
International Vehicles Corp. (Bristol, IN) manufactured the ''Horizon ST'' model with a molded fiberglass overcab.
Rockwood, Inc., (Goshen, IN) manufactured the ''Roamer'' model.
Bonanza Travelers (Elkhart, IN) made the pop-top ''Bandit'' model.
Slumber Queen (British Columbia) made a model for the Canadian market.
GATHERINGS OF OWNERS
There are several gatherings per year in various places in the United States where owners of Toyota motorhomes get together for “Rallies” or “Toy-ins” as they are sometimes called. Locations have recently been in Arizona, California, Washington, Idaho, Florida, Minnesota, Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, Wisconsin, Vermont, and Massachusetts. Rallies scheduled so far for 2022 are planned for Arizona, New England, and the Mid-West. Details about upcoming rallies are posted in this group in the “Messages” section.
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Welcome to the Toyota-campers Group - continuing since 2001
Welcome to the Toyota-campers group at Groups.io. This group is a continuation of the Toyota-Campers Yahoo Group that originally started at the beginning of 2001. Now after years of being a very active online-community for Toyota Mini-motorhome owners, we have accumulated a great wealth of information in our Files, Links, and Photos. Both new and existing owners will find many detailed documents about the history of Toyota RVs, and tips for making your “Toyhouse” more comfortable, drivable, presentable, and enjoyable. This group migrated from the Yahoo platform in November 2019, and this accumulated data has been transferred here to this group for all those who wish to access it. Please continue posting all your Toyota RVing questions, comments, and reports and photos here! Tika, Group Owner/Moderator Toyota RV owner for over 30 years
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Tika
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Keeping this group ongoing
Thank you to those who have expressed concern about the cost of this group. It is heartwarming to find that so many folks care. Moving this group from yahoo has cost $200 for the expedited transfer fee (as a credit card payment), plus it will cost an expected $20 per month into the future. For those of you who feel it has been valuable to keep this group going, and have asked about helping, we will give you an opportunity to make a donation to cover the costs. Please contact us privately for a Paypal address. You can reply with a message you mark “private” at the lower right. Any folks that want to offer support will be appreciated. As it has evolved, this group's function has been pooling the collective wisdom of Toyota RV owners in our posts and files, so as to be able to educate others who seek to learn, without "reinventing the wheel" so to speak. If you have gotten something from this group and want to see it continue, and if you are in a position to help that happen, please send a private reply. Thank you! Tika Owner/moderator Toyota-Campers Group at Groups.io
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Tika
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Body Damage
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Greetings! I'm Cheryl, I just joined, thanks, it's good to be here. I finally got my 86' Toyota Dolphin on May 8th and I love it! This is my first post. I guess I backed into something and now a seam on the rear of my lil' Dolphin is damaged. Is this something I can fix myself or is it a job for a professional? My son is very good at fixing most everything. I have a short trip planned for this weekend, about an hour and a half away from home. I feel like driving the rig like this will make it worse. I really hope we can fix it before Friday. Fix it tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for looking, Cheryl
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Cheryl F
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'89 parts vehicle Dolphin
Not my ad https://www.facebook.com/share/p/2pKsBBHHZkB1Nqwt/?mibextid=kL3p88 Looks like it's in Minnesota.
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ken winston caine
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1991 Warrior - What is this thing in the taillight wiring?
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Anybody have any idea what this thing is? It's the thing marked "??" in about the center of the picture. It's located on the house underside between the grey and black tanks, about 2 feet forward of the rear bumper. Out one side is the taillight wiring and the other side goes forward (somewhere). Still working on troubleshooting my clearance light problem... tail lights and front and rear marker lights all work as does the trailer light connector... I know this, because while metering the trailer light connector I shorted it out and blew the fuse (lucky I have plenty of spare fuses). Rick in NH
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1991 Warrioir clearance lights
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Anybody know how the clearance lights on a 1991 Winnebago Warrior are wired in? All of the upper clearance lights, front and back, have quit working. All the other lights (head, tail, stop, turn, etc.) all work including the bottom clearance lights left and right. Fuses are all good. I assume the clearance lights are controlled by the tail light fuse? Rick in NH
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1991 Warrior passenger side view mirror brace
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Had a bit of a mishap with my 1991 Warrior, hit something with the right side view mirror and broke the center cross brace. Oddly enough that's the only thing that broke; the mirrors themselves came out of it fine. This photo shows the driver side brace, what I need is the passenger side brace (might be the same, not sure). Anyone know where I can get one, or perhaps any of you have one for sale?
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Broken inline fuse cartridge by engine
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On our 1987 Sunrader, with the 22R-E, I found this wire disconnected because the fuse cartridge clasp broke. When I saw it, the fuse was gone. In the Spring of 2012, when I had stopped by Sunrader Bob's for another electrical diagnosis, he was at first puzzled by the unusual amount of wiring under the hood, not the normal setup. So here's an attempt to figure out the unorthodox. On the photo of the electrical device with attached wiring, it's the black wire, coming from the upper right, going out the bottom left. The other photo shows the broken fuse cartridge, with the wire going into the firewall. Any idea what for and what size fuse? Thank you. Tom
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Tom L
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1991 Warrior - Replacing house thermostat (NOT engine thermostat)
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Good morning, all. The furnace in my 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse does not regulate the heat very well.. it cycles from uncomfortably warm to uncomfortably cold and back again. I'm thinking maybe replacing the 34-year-old thermostat with a more modern-technology one might help. Any of you have experience with this and can offer suggestions? Thanks... Rick in NH
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Resealing 86 Dolphin roof
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I bought this dolphin easily 10 years ago. It was in pretty good shape, but there were a few minor leaks in the cabover area. As the area of the cabover was prone to leaking, I decided to take a drastic step and removed the window, sealing it with plywood then fiberglassing over it. I also decided that some of the corners, between the wall and roofing metal, had water leaks so along the ply had puffed out from water expansion. There were spots where the corner metal did not fully cover the joint. As we were fiberglassing in the front window panel, I decided to fiberglass over the corners. Here it is, many years later. I've pulled the tarp off with the intention of getting Dolphin on the road. Of course, I can't get it started, and it's been diagnosed to be a fuel pump problem, but the problem I'm here to ask about is there has been moisture that has gotten into the camper. I'm wondering if it's from where the fiberglass covers the metal corners, as it's impossible to tell whether it's 100% sealed. Though we put 2 coats of Kool Seal on, the Kool seal has come off in spots. I'm wondering how to seal off roof. 1. Do I need to remove some of the Kool Seal so anything I apply is on bare metal/fiberglass? 2. Should I get a can of Dicor RP-CRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating Part 2 - White, 1 Gallon off a washed, cleaned roof. Can I se the Part 2 without using the Part 1? 3. Should I just use Dicor 501LSW-1 RV Rubber Roof Sealant Self Leveling Caulk where I think it needs to be applied? 4. Should I just run RV Roof Tape White along the edges where the fiberglass ends on the metal roof? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, I removed the AC and replaced it with MaxxAir, using new gaskets, so I don't think the leaks come from the open ports. I think it's the Kool Seal.
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Geraldine Kudaka
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Messages List is temporarily not loading - fix is coming soon hopefully.
UPDATE: The Groups.io team has now fixed this glitch. --- The Messages List for this group is temporarily not loading at the main online site. Explanation unknown. A fix is coming soon hopefully. Sorry for any inconvenience. Please check back often for continuing discussions about all things related to Toyota RVs. However even though the main Messages List is currently down, you can still enjoy our several WIKI articles here: https://groups.io/g/toyota-campers/wiki And our voluminous FILES Section here where you can read articles all day about Toyota RVs. https://groups.io/g/toyota-campers/files Thank you for your continuing membership in the longest-running online forum about Toyota RVs! Tika - group owner/ moderator
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Tika
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'92 Dolphin in El Paso
Spotted this on FB Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/share/eGXcAu9fPJocTrLy/?mibextid=kL3p88 Sounds to me that it's likely suffered a lot of water damage, but that's just a guess.
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ken winston caine
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Tachometer for toyhouse
I'm planning to install a tachometer, coolant temp gauge, and transmission temp gauge on a 3-gauge left-pillar-mount housing in a 1991 Warrior V6 auto. I'd like to use GlowShift gauges but the only 2" tachometer I can find is 10,000 RPM max. For a toyhouse with a redline of around 5500-6000 that probably spends most of its life below 3500 it seems like 10,000 is kind of silly. Anybody know of a 2" tach with a max range of more like 6000, that would look good with the GlowShift temperature gauges? Have any of you done a similar installation using the pillar-mount housing and would you mind sending me a few photos (or post them here)? Thanks... Eric in NH
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New parts
Due to accident we lost our motor home, insurance gave us good settlement. Here are a few new parts I want to sell. The mirror $185 and 3 valve stems $20 each.
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Ken
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Door stop
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Is this the original door stop? Or is here a smart solution for?
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paul@...
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1990 Odyssey Starlite for sale, $2500
I've owned this camper since 2008 and it's great for one or two people. I had just done repairs on the fuel system (new tank and injectors etc) and when I cranked it at my mechanics it made a banging noise - he said it was most likely a valve. His vision is going and he's not up to digging into it but he did find a buildable core that comes with it. This has been a great little camper and I hope someone will buy it and fix it. It's a V6. Here are some pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ym7MSQyTkCV6kKBF7. It's located south of Tucson.
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Alice B
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Awning for sale - $250!
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Jim, a new awning can be had for much less than $1000, unless you are talking premium fabric. If you want to sell it, you might get $100 - $150 (Including the cordage). However, it does rain a good bit in the east and you may find it useful to keep. Put a piece of gorilla tape on the tear, and you will stay drier.
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jim0123r
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Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader
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This is about what Roy Vannoy said here about his Nissan Sunrader Shorty's brakes. I bought a 1986 18 foot Nissan Sunrader Aug 2022. The brakes are sooooo like I don't have brakes. I have to pull back on the steering wheel and step down on brake HARD, to get Sunrader to stop. One time I was trying to stop on a steep downhill, and put all my body weight down on the brake pedal, and "not much stopping was happening". I almost rear ended car waiting at stop sign at bottom of the hill. I am almost afraid to drive that Sunrader, cos the brake pedal doesn't have much effect. People who don't know these ToyHomes say "it is the weight of the camper". No not true. My same Toyota 18 foot Sunrader stops on a dime with little pressure on the brake. One time I got a red light running ticket (photo) because the light turned yellow and I hesitated too long, knowing that if I stopped, all my groceries I just bought for camping would be rolling all over the floor, cos it stops so suddenly. So, I got a red light running ticket for my indecision! But I got out of it, AZ requires personal service by human, and I proved to the judge, they served wrong person in another state. I don't know what is the cause of my Nissan Sunrader brakes requiring so much pressure and effort to stop the vehicle, like Roy seems to know about his Sunrader "strong front, weak rear". See what Roy wrote below. I am assuming poor braking power is a design that comes with Nissan D21 Hardbody brakes not being as effective as Toyota brakes, because I own same Sunrader (1982)on Toyota chassis that stops SO GOOD, THE WHOLE RV PITCHES FORWARD, when I step lightly on the brake! It is hard to get some mechanic to resolve this, when they do not know how Nissan is SUPPOSED TO BRAKE! Anyone here know? I don't know either, I only know my Toyota HAS OPPOSITE BRAKING, so instantly effective, that RV lurches forward. Julia c. Re: Rear Brakes? From: roy vannoy Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2023 04:07:25 PST Robert keep us posted, I have had the same issues with my brakes since I have owned 18 Nissan Sunrader. Lots of front braking, weak rear. I order all my parts from Rock Auto all fit except the rear brakes shoes. My shoes were to big, I kept them for reference. I'm Still looking for a set of new shoes. My Nissan did not have a proportion valve when I bought it, don't know if it ever came with one. I'm hoping the new shoes will help. Roy is responding to what Robert Himler said on Nov 13: I am sort of leaning towards glazed brake shoes, thus wanting to replace them with something better than stock, or stock parts. Also gutting, or totally replacing the proportioner valve with a tee fitting. New cylinders, hoses, steel brake lines. Locking up the rear end vs locking up the front end? I will take "Neither for $200 Alex"... I would be fine with locking both ends at the same pedal pressure because my foot can control that situation...... See more by going to that date on this forum. -- Julia - Scottsdale, AZ
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Julia
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Rear window glass Sunrader rear dinette
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Has anyone had the glass out of the frame, (and put it back in) on Sunrader rear dinette models? Any words of wisdom you can share about your experience getting it back in?
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Doug Hertzog
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Facebook Toyota Motorhome Club vs Toyota Campers Group
Hi, I am sorry Tika, I have not been on Toyota Campers for years it seems. I just realized that Toyota Motorhome Club on Facebook is not a continuation of Toyota Campers Group. I had to dig in my yahoo emails to find Toyota Campers Group. I have really appreciated the info available in this group. I hope that the moderators here think about posting about this group on Facebook Toyota Motorhome Club maybe once a month. There is a great files section here that has accumulated lots of good info over the years. I put my 1985 Dolphin Manual there. Take care everybody.
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Pete Wisda
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