Looking for a replacement for RL1. I think the one in my FT101B has the "tired spring" mentioned in the service manual. Potter & Brumfield part R10-E1X6-V90 looks like it might work with a bit of wiring change. Interested to hear if anyone has tried this and what the result was.

Hello, I have been replacing the electrolytic capacitors in my radio, and have gotten down to C142 and C143 listed on the parts list as being on the main chassis. I can't find them either on the schematic or on the radio. Does anyone know where they are located?

Hi, I got this FT-101 about 2 years ago. I went through some checks to make sure tubes were neutralized and no obvious burned parts. Still has original tubes It seems to transmit and receive quite fine on 40m. I only had 40m dipole so didn't bother to transmit on other bands. This year, I got an old tuner, so put up a simple long-wire antenna. Again, 40m seems to be fine, I was able to get QSOs on CW and SSB. But I realized there is no output power on other bands. IC goes up and down as per the "carrier" knob. But on PO meter setting nothing comes out. Nor can I see it on my power/SWR meter. (again 40m it seems to work as it should). I am a bit stumped. What would you suggest I look at first?

I recently bought this FR-101D with LED display. It was very dirty inside and outside but with all filters, FM unit and a 2 meter converter. Last weeks I cleaned it thoroughly and everything seems to work but it needs some realignment and the top cover can use some new paint. But how rare are these? I only find pictures and info of the D versions with the green nixie tubes. I can't find any schematic or manual about this LED version and it's all original Yaesu! Who has more info? Erwin, PA3DAF

All- I bought a cheap Yaesu ft101b to learn about tube HF. Based on guidance from this board I started it on a dim bulb tester (receive worked), tuned it per manual and service manual (they do not agree, but both tuned it). Set it for 1/2 power and transmitted into a known resonant 20m dipole. Got about 60w out. Groovy! Next day it only received!!! Stopped and pulled the case to look for c13 and c125 to replace them if still the originals per instructions here and elsewhere. I found sources saying this is what happens if C13 fails open.If it fails shorted, fire ensues. I have had no fire, smoke, or evil smells from the 101. Opeed case and found this inside (see photos of rectifier board PB1076B.) This is PB1076B, the rectifier board. That stuff is not spray on insulation, the components are partially carbonized. And it still receives. Tough radio. How do you remove this board?? It appears to have been born in this position and cannot be removed without explosives. Most everything else looks accessible, but not this. No other damage evident anywhere. How can I get this board out? Anyone have one to sell? And while I'm asking, where are the C13 and C125's I need to replace? I have found several with those numbers. Thanks for any help available. I think I made or bought a mess. 73, Tom KO4HNB

Hello, I am new to the FT-101 world and new to the group and new to radio repair in general (and to be clear, I’m NOT an 11meter operator). I recently got my hands on a beautiful old FT-101 EE. It receives perfectly but no TX (3 watts). I have pulled all the boards and carefully cleaned all the contacts. I see no sign of damage or excessive heat in any of the components, with exception of the NEC tubes which both have some pretty dark oval staining inside. No signs of modification in this rig. I have checked the voltages on PB1547, and have found pin #2 at -72v (-60v spec), pin #4 at -21v (-20v spec) and pin #5 at -192v (-100v spec). I’m wondering if that high voltage on pin #5 is an indicator of a specific issue, or with the bias and driver voltages being within reason, could those old tubes have died from “natural causes”. Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Vince Fischer, KN6KKZ Ione, Ca.