The screen inside the frame on the sliding door of my 2001 Eurovan Weekender was detaching. I've stored the frame/screen in my basement with the plans to take care of it one day. A recent trip to Wenatchee State Park convinced me it's time to take care of this. I reattached the screen & took the frame/screen out to my van & quickly discovered that I have two left frames. I bought this van used in Austin, TX back in 2016, so not sure why I didn't pick up on this sooner. Anyway, I'm searching for either the full right screen/frame or at least the frame. Again this is for the area on the sliding door. Thanks in advance.

Someone in another thread asked about EV repair in CS. I was about to recommend this guy but when I checked the website it says they only work on vehicles between the years 2009-2024. He used to work on our 2000 EVC when we lived near the Springs and he was great. If you can't find anyone else, maybe he'll make an exception. https://baxtersautomotive.com/ We also had our van lifted and leveled by this place and they did a great job as well: https://aspenautoclinic.com/ Mike

I'm finally after years of mirrors not working tackling the job to fix them because now the windows are either working or not. So before I get into the harness I want to check for power at the connectors going to the main switch. I have the door card off and the switch removed and connectors unplugged- the orange and two black ones- and want to know what pins to check for power on each one. This would tell me if the harness had a break right? Also is there a way to check the master switch with a meter a Samba poster took the switches apart and found corrosion and cleaned them up and got things working. Thanks for any help. Spencer 02mvwk

As noted elsewhere, I found that a front brake hose had been rubbing a bit so I replaced both sides before hitting the road. Once on the road, it sometimes felt like I had the emergency brake on and was really dragging to get up to speed. I wondered what I had done by changing the hoses. First time it happened I stopped and checked and did notice the right front caliper was pulsing. I remembered that I had clipped off a zip tie holding on the pad sensor connector and wondering why it was there. But now I realized that the connector retention clip was broken so I put on another zip tie and the pulsing stopped. I figured that was it and kept on down the road with no trouble for an hour or so. It was hot. While on I-10 I started getting something else that seemed more like a flat tire almost or regular bumps in the road but it was neither. I also noticed it was not coasting at all and felt it was still a brake issue - ABS?- and searched desperately to find a fuse I could pull to kill the ABS. I found the fuse block in the battery compartment and pulled the two 30 amps, leaving the bigger 50 amp ABS in. not even clear which one it is. It was really hot working there and with the engine on and battery cover off it was blowing all the heated engine fan air fully and directly into the battery area. Thing is, I store some stuff there beside the ABS and had grown tired of pulling and replacing the plastic battery cover for access. So, I had decided to leave the battery cover off for this trip. Anyway, fuses pulled, ABS hopefully disabled, we moved on down the road. Well, an hour later, with ABS warning on due to pulled fuses I started up a pass but the brakes were dragging again so I stopped again. I checked to see if I could roll in neutral on a hill and could not. Replaced the fuses (had not helped and frustrated, I hit the brakes hard a few times while sitting in park and something released. The car could now roll again while in neutral and we went over the pass with plenty of power as usual. Next stop, now thinking of the heated air I had felt blasting the ABS unit and not just the battery, I scavenged some cardboard and fashioned a battery cover to block hot air blowing in. I had never thought before that not only would heat leak from the engine side but the entirel cooling flow would actually route directly into the battery ABS area with the engine cover on and battery cover off. So, with the makeshift battery cover replacement in place, we finished a long day drive with no further incident that day or the next. So far, so good. Conclusion: The loose pad sensor connector was giving intermittent signals throwing a code (I had read that by the way). But the real issue was a hot ABS that heated up and misbehaved but then cooled down when I turned off the engine long enough. So, if you keep the engine cover on, keep the battery cover on, for hot climates at least. I had actually briefly checked online before leaving without it and found T4 owners often leave off battery covers BUT those T4s are in England. Not the same as the Southwest USA in Summer!

I have a 99 Eurovan with a 2.5 TDI (ACV) and 5spd manual. I am looking for a mechanic to install it. Pretty sure I have solid lead on the parts, but open to other sources. If anyone has suggestions on mechanics willing to do this please let me know. I am in Bozeman, Montana and willing to drive less than 1,000 miles or so. THANKS

I recently sent an email to the group with a photo - the photo was about 2400x1900 pixels and 8MB in size. I know people are on this email list with slow/limited connections, and that size is too big. However, it looks like Groups.IO automatically resized the photo down to about 500 pixels. In my opinion, this is too small to be useful. I feel like the resizing was more generous in the past. If this is adjustable, can this be set a bit higher, say 1024x1024? Mike

It appears the part # is actually 7D0201849A (3rd digit is a zero, not an Oh). I see some references to the "A" part number Here but mine clearly has a "B" part number. It's not clear if either part is for sale - BusDepot lists it as special order. I've emailed them to check. I wonder if the previous owner had replaced this before on mine?

Does anyone have experience with the Metris Getaway camper: https://www.mbvans.com/en/metris-getaway It sure looks good as a Eurivan replacement - except for the price of course : - / Steve in Pittsburgh 2002 EVMV Weekender

Is the VW Evan any good? Anybody looked at the Canoo? That thing checks all the boxes except availability. Crew cab AWD flat bed with flip up sides is my choice. But availability and service? I wish Tesla would buy that company and hit the accelerator. (Oops almost said gas!) We gotta stop burning stuff!

My 1995 EVC has a flashing coolant light on cold start up. Coolant level is right at the upper "Max" line in the coolant reservoir and once the engine warms up,......it is well within the normal range. I have read that this problem has been discussed here. Wondering if there is a way to search for that prior discussion, or if someone can walk me through the fix,....I read that it can require re-soldering the instrument cluster circuit board.

This might be old news, but I spoke with eurocampers today about getting a stock poptop canvas (the stock ones are made with Sunforger canvas - a pretty cool tent material). I have a repaired one, and wanted one to eventually replace it. They indicated to me it was discontinued. I also called winnebagoparts.com and they repeated the same information. Darn. -- David 1705.net 95 EVG(lamper) Seattle, WA

Anybody ever replaced just the corrugated tubing piece between the two solid pieces on the 93 exhaust manifold? https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/EuroVan/Convoluted-tubing----------------------only-for-CORRUGATED-PIPE/5132150/023253061B.html I cannot find the part available for sale other than foreign ebay/online... and expensive or part of a used assembly. Not sure I trust it. But, there seem to be a bunch of similar types of pieces... e.g. https://www.amazon.com/FORTLUFT-Connector-Stainless-3-00x4-00-76x102mm/dp/B082M95QWP?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2EDFBTLGRQ7PT&th=1 If I cannot find and OEM part, I'm thinking I'd find the closest spec/dimension. The OEM assembly does use clamps so I'm hoping that a very close fit would work. The current spare exhaust manifold I have is good on the solid parts, but the accordion piece is ripped. Also, the piece seems very tight on both sides. I haven't tried to muscle it off yet. I'm going to give it a shot so I can get accurate measurements. I've searched online to see if I can find dimensions for the part. No luck. Has anybody personally done any exhaust manifold repairs on a 1993?

Greetings all, Is there a good permanent fix for the front doors? I have owned 2 1993 Eurovans. The first one never had a single issue with the doors trying to lock when you open. The one I have now is awful. Both front doors almost always get stuck trying to open and have to use the key while opening the door. I saw a YouTube that shows stuffing a tiny o-ring into the lock pin itself. This helps keep the lock from moving when opening the door, but not really a permanent fix. For reference, I replaced the latch mechanism with a new unit last summer, and was fine for a while, but does the exact same thing. Thanks Sean

While going through some old boxes in the garage, I found some a document someone sent me back in 2000. I was in the process of moving, it got stuck into a box, and made its way to the back corner of the garage it seems! It's a xeroxed copy of: The New Volkswagen EuroVan Service Training Self-study Program 401 Appears to be focused on the 1993, but that should cover much of the 1995 model year as well. Covers CL, GL, and MV models. 5-cyl engine only. I'll have to run it through a document scanner to generate a PDF, which I will duly upload, but in the meantime, here's what the TOC looks like: Model Line....... Technical Data Engine.. Cooling System. Digifant Engine Management System Component Location. Fuel Delivery System Fuel Injectors. Cold Start Valve Evaporative Emissions System. Idle Air Control Valve Heated Oxygen Sensor. Throttle Position Potentiometer. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Intake Air Temperature Sensor and CO Potentiometer. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor V.A.G 1551 Scan Tool Information. Manual Transmission Automatic Transmission. Shift Lock III.. Front Suspension. Power Steering Rear Suspension Brake System. Anti-Lock Brake System Body Heating and Ventilation. Rear Heater Without A/C. Rear Heater With A/C. Air Recirculation. Auxiliary Heater (Canada Only). Air Conditioning R134a Overview.. Overview Rear Air Conditioner Central Electric System.. Component Location Vehicle Lifting Points. Special Tools. Nomenclature..